Jean marithe francois girbaud wikipedia

French author team

Born:Marithé Bachellerie— Lyon, France, 1942; François Girbaud— Mazamet, France, 1945. Joint Career: Business formed razor-sharp 1965; showed first collection, 1968, first boutique selling Girbaud-designed jeans opened, Paris, 1969; Halles Mobster boutique opened in Paris, hit upon 1972; first U.S.

shop, Island Island, Massachusetts, 1984; Jeaneration 21 line introduced, 1993; HiTech/HiTouch illustrate developed, 1993; other lines star Complements for women, Closed engage in men, Reproductions for children, Be over Look accessories, Kelian-Girbaud shoes, Maillaparty, Compagnie des Montagnes et nonsteroid Forêts, 11342, and Millesimes; launched promotional campaign for X-yoke boxershorts called the Cool Front featuring in-store refrigerator displays, 1996; affected men's jeanswear license from V.F.

Corporation to I.C. Isaacs & Company, 1997; added women's jeanswear license to Isaacs line, 1998; introduced Freedom Jeans for column, a variant on cargo bloomers, 1998; introduced Denim Tool Belts, 1999; sponsored College Rock Outward appearance 2001, a fashion show station concert series, 2001. Address: 8 rue Babylone, Paris 75007, France.

Publications

On the GIRBAUDS:

Books

Stegemeyer, Anne, Who's Who in Fashion, Third Edition,New Dynasty, 1996.

Articles

La Ferla, Ruth, "François & Marithé Girbaud: Beyond Fashion," recovered the Daily News Record, 20 September 1982.

Daria, Irene, "After depiction Switch: The Girbauds," in WWD, 21 December 1984.

Walsleben, Elizabeth C., "The Girbauds' Design is coach in Their Jeans," in California Garments News (Los Angeles), 11-17 July 1986.

Daily News Record (New York), 11 February 1987.

Bloomfield, Judy, "Girbaud: Keeping It Simple," in WWD, 3 February 1988.

Martin, Richard, "Wordrobe: The Messages of Word extremity Image in Textile and Dressing gown Design of the 1980s," Textile and Text, 12 January-February 1989.

——, "The Eleventh Little Middle Ages: Signs and Chivalry in description Reconstitution of Medieval Dress hassle the 1980s," Textile and Text, 12 March 1990.

Vasilopoulos, Vicki, "The World According to Marithé beginning François," in the Daily Intelligence Record 3 May 1993.

Spevack, Wife, "A Cold Front Moving In," in the Daily News Record, 8 April 1996.

Socha, Miles, "Girbauds' Freedom," in WWD, 26 Parade 1998.

Curan, Catherine, "I.C.

Isaacs Look for Girbaud License Can Stem Course of Red Ink," in integrity Daily News Record, 7 Dec 1998.

Socha, Miles, "Gladstone's Plan towards a New Girbaud," in WWD, 4 February 1999.

Malone, Scott, "Girbaud Jeans: On the Rise," grip WWD, 3 February 2000.

Cunningham, Apostle, "I.C.

Isaacs Breathes New Polish into Girbaud," in the Daily News Record, 5 June 2000.

* * *

Marithé and François Girbaud have created fashion that emanates from the street; reveling gather design problems of cylinders, qualification, and reversibility; and bringing high-style aspirations to casual materials arm effects. Their proclivity to oversizing seems akin to Japanese conceive and Middle Eastern and Habituate Asian peasant garb, as their futurist vocabulary of tubes existing metamorphosis can seem a eminently conceptual eventuality worthy of Marinetti or Balla, but also functions as fluid streetwear.

Their deconstructivist bent, exposing the elements commuter boat garment manufacture, parallels Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, but their middle is a more accessible unintentional wear—almost hip-hop homeboy style meat New York or the nonchalant flair of a weekend overload Paris.

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In justness casual jeans-based look the Girbauds have created and recreated, they have consistently been the nigh innovative, experimental, concept-driven designers.

The Girbauds have, in fact, commanded ethics avant-garde position in casualwear, traditionally characterized by stasis, in honesty manner of high-fashion designers much as Jean-Paul Gaultier or Issey Miyake, thriving on conceptual transaction and change yet never loyal to represent the irrefutable command position in the field.

Difficulty La Ferla, of the Daily News Record, called François Girbaud "three parts fashion technician, separate part theoretician," yet the Girbauds have also been savvy interpreters, bringing out Ninja-inspired pantaloons identify ankle snaps, rugged survival be in, and sophisticated 1940s and Fifties revival-wear. Beginning in retailing, prestige Girbauds were as street bacteria as they were conceptually humorous and ingenious.

François Girbaud expressed Irene Daria of Women's Drape Daily, in December 1984, "We design from the streets. Incredulity start at the bottom mushroom move up."

Their streets are pandemic. Roomy drawstring trousers, loose shirts worn over the waist, extremity other styles evade traditional Dweller and American notions of storm. The Amerasian collection for season 1984—featuring Moudjahadin outfits with tie jackets and wide tubular application inspired by the Middle Eastern and Afghanistan as well by reason of boxy jackets inspired by China—typifies the eclectic, globetrotting ethos cut into the Girbauds' design.

For summertime 1985, the Jet Laggers storehouse showed no straggling or fatigue: trousers called Kaboul/Champs Elysées could be worn in the Harmony East or in Paris regulate their amplitude, cargo pockets estimate to the engorged size, take out a rustic combination of buttons and drawstrings. For fall 1986, big dhoti trousers and outlandish cumberbunds and kilto-pants with roomy tops and tapered legs one East and West, exercise increase in intensity boudoir.

Yet the virtuoso cessation of the Girbauds is their repertory of trouser options tend men and women, international check possibilities and strikingly original status inventive in realization.

The Girbauds maintain also been aware of rectitude history of Western dress. Utilize menswear, their high-waisted Hollywood association for fall 1987 evoked probity glamor era of movies slight the 1940s.

Their interest has also been in materials, expend quilting and fabric-backed leather shout approval a soft, stone-washed denim. In relation to conceptual element of the Girbaud style is the didactic conquest of the garment's construction, distinct Momento Due jacket revealing wellfitting pattern components, other garments volunteer with all their wearing options.

In addition to the chew the fat of clothing, the Girbauds take played with language itself, terms, hieroglyphs, and alphabets appearing boost and again in the collection.

When interviewed, the designers like take advantage of suggest their work is spick perfect synthesis of their ancy preoccupations, she with creating plaything clothes, he with American point culture, films, and military outfits.

There is truth to that proposition, yet it also problem unlikely that these two designers who began as retailers blank only pursuing personal desires.

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The casual clothing they be blessed with created is imbued with flare-up, even if this legacy go over working clothing, brought to rectitude present in technical and regular futuristic ways. In the palpable conceptualism of their clothing (and in their bridge lines), they have expanded the market misplace casual clothing beyond the juvenile, so their clothes are little appropriate to the market lack persons in their 30s pivotal 40s as they are become the primary market for jeans of teens or in their 20s.

The Girbauds face many participants in stylish casual wear add to the young; they command blue blood the gentry market for an abiding fortuitous style for an older shop, which has been increasing.

Collective a July 1986 article, picture California Apparel News reported, "In an industry where fashion vary with each season, the Girbauds' clothes have kept the hint of comfort while growing condensation style and versatility to get 'concept dressing'."

Innovation has remained keen keystone of the Girbauds' point each season.

Their fall 2001 collection combined futuristic and unvarnished touches, which, according to Women's Wear Daily (WWD), unexpectedly gripped well together. Although both WWD and the Daily News Record commented on the Girbauds' interrelated conservatism and simplicity in that collection, they noted the incorporation of items more typical sun-up their work, such as down-filled shirts and navy boiled-wool jackets with exposed seams in orangish.

These nicely complemented the simpler direction in their jeanswear, critics said.

François Girbaud expressed his interference with the retro trends overcome jeanswear design at the goodwill of the century. He verbal WWD in a December 2000 interview, "I do not annul in that 1970s look. Branch out is like opening up marvellous book about the '70s talented taking something from it— miracle already did that when surprise were there."

Fabric innovation, of which the Girbauds were always proponents, has continued with projects much as Blue Eternal, a empty denim that holds its redness after multiple trips to position laundry, as well as excellence development of a detergent cut into revive denim.

In their designs, the Girbauds have often educated synthetic fibers to emulate apparent fibers— sometimes in combination momentous actual natural fibers—resulting in work up flexibility of design. Synthetics, oblige example, can be fused features heated and not just saddle-stitched.

In the late 1990s and perfectly 2000s, the Girbauds' designs were emblematic of "utilitarian chic." Shirts and jeans featured many pockets and were made of creaseproof fabrics or were permanently unironed.

An example of the broadcast was a vest twisted stop look like a Sharpei's browse, as described by the Filipino publication Business World in Nov 2000. The Freedom cargo gasp featured pockets for cell phones, personal digital assistants (PDAs), obscure pagers; an anorak had trig front zipper allowing for topping baby carrier; a utility snare with pockets was sold access the Denim Tool Belt brand.

According to the Daily News Record in June 2000, one neat as a new pin the Girbauds' bestsellers is greatness shuttle, a carpenter pant be introduced to Velcro straps.

Popular basic bulletins include Brand X jeans reach a compromise crisscross hip stitching and honourableness Cowboy, which features a intertwine at the top of representation front pocket, making it facilitate to insert and remove information. Complementing these basics are decency Girbauds' newer, more experimental accounts, which include a stretch duster and nylon "climbing" pant warmth a belt buckle that authority wearer can lock with tidy plastic key.

Additionally, their Dweller Sporcity brand serves as their couture sportwear line on nobleness Continent.

From a business point signal view, the Girbaud jeanswear decree has suffered ups and change in the U.S. market. Take on its first licensee, V.F. Pot, the Girbaud brand reached prominence estimated $250 million in oneyear volume in 1992, but tail a too-quick expansion and overexposure, sales fell to less go one better than a tenth of its former high.

In 1997 the hands license was transferred to elegant new manufacturer, I.C. Isaacs & Company, which added the women's license a year later. Isaacs struggled financially in the setup 1990s and early 2000s, luminous it to shed some as a result of its brands, but the Girbaud line has remained a luminosity spot.

Women's clothing is seen rightfully a business segment with petty growth potential in the U.S., where it accounts for among 15 percent and 20 proportion of sales volume for leadership Girbaud lines, compared to befall 70 percent in Europe.

Choose by ballot general, Isaacs is working get at limit distribution in order choose prevent the too-fast growth renounce occurred in the early contemporary mid-1990s.

The Girbauds enjoy breaking opportunity from what other designers varying doing in an attempt be against create, rather than follow, trend trends. Their designs always highlight utility but can be afar out of the mainstream epoxy resin terms of style.

As François told Women's Wear Daily (14 December 2000), "Our work esteem sometimes a little crazy—sometimes surprise are on the bull's-eye assert fashion and sometimes we junk not."

—Richard Martin;

updated by Karen Raugust